GRAHAM FIELD
Overland motorcycle travel author, strong desires and infinite dreams

I’ve gained quite a lot of travel experience over the years, here are some of the things I've remembered and relearned, the tips and tricks I wished I known before I left. This are my hard wisdom based of firsthand experiences and predicaments.

b&w portraitI would describe the extended bike journey as an independent overland trip, it doesn’t become an adventure until an event occurs beyond my plans. However I generally don't have much of a plan, just a destination. I do have a pretty good idea of what I don't want to experience. I don't want to be sitting at boarders for ages, enduring fines and body searches. I don't want terminal break downs in uninhabited areas; I don't want hunger, dehydration, frost bite or heat exhaustion. I don't want to pay out hard earned travel money to rip-off merchants who prey on my desperate circumstance. It’s not unavoidable but there are certain steps that can prevent this from being a regular occurrence. So in no particular order of importance. What follows are my and this is important, only my hard earned top tips.

My top tips are may not necessary your top tips, they might not even be mine next week, tips evolve based on needs, experiences, age and wisdom so my toppest tip would be. Never take someone’s else’s tips as top. Also my experiences are based on solo, budget, overland motorcycle travel and may not work for people with company, more money or less time.

The fake wallet. I keep the real valuables stashed and use a wallet with some local currency, and a token amount of US dollars and Euros in it. A laminated copy of my driver’s license, some expired credit cards and a photo of a child makes it more personal. To the opportunist it’s a good little steal, to the corrupt cop it’s all you have, it looks real and it sort of is, its loss may ruin my day but not my entire trip.

The all encompassing bike cover is a good way to lower my profile, particular because I travel alone, inevitable the bike will have to be left unattended at times. Our loaded bikes are so intriguing and often attract a swarm of fiddlers. If they can’t see it they won’t mess with it and thieves can’t simply pull a bag from under a bungee, it’s a delaying tactic. Sometimes on the road your stealth can hide your wealth

two upSpare keys, I hide them somewhere on the bike, losing my ignition key need not be a major trauma just a matter of unscrewing a side panel where a spare is hidden and taped into the wiring loom. When I’ve done trips with friends we carried each other’s spare keys. (I must give them back sometime)

As I begin to cram supplies for every eventuality into my panniers it’s important to remember they sell toothpaste and soap in other countries too. I don't need to take supplies to last the entire trip. I only take the t-shirt I am wearing when I leave, I’m bound to see one I want on the road and can add to my travel wardrobe on route. Equally, I can’t possibly foresee every problem, can’t take a spare bike in my panniers. I wouldn't want to walk it but these days the world is a small place and most spare parts can reach my secluded location in 7 days via a courier, whilst I take a break and become a temporary local in a small town that others only pass through. Sometimes staying put is the most memorable part of the journey. And finally on the subject of spares and break downs the further from civilization you find yourself the more ingenuity the locals have, fabrication, bodging and reinventing is a way of life beyond our OEM part number and year of manufacture culture.

A few emergency meals and protean bars can help me get through that cold and miserable day when I don't find a restaurant, village grosser or make my desired destination. When this happens to me I wonder ‘is this the emergency I prepared for or will there be a bigger one later? Should I eat my supplies now or save them until death is imminent from starvation?’ but at least I have the choice. Oh and those squeezy plastic marmite containers that suggest you stand them on their lids bloody leak if you do, particularly in hot countries with bumpy roads.

balancing actThe peace of mind gained from leaving with all visas intact in a wonderful thing but not always possible, so I try to know in advance where I will get my ongoing visas, the price, the currency I will need, and having letters of invitation (LoI’s) in place. It all helps to ease the bureaucratic process. I find that dealing with those niggling distractions helps keep my mind in the moment, appreciating the journey as it occurs and not fretting about unknown documents that may be demanded by various foreign embassies in a country I haven’t even reached yet. Also once my passport photos have been spat at me from the side of my High Street photo booth, I photocopy them on photographic paper. Doubling then quadrupling the quantity I have, because you can’t have enough passport photos in the visa application process.

 I'm often asked what the most important thing I had in my panniers was, the answer sounds flippant but ‘space’ is the answer, there will always be something else to carry once I’ve left home, food, souvenir, an addition to my ‘thought-I-had-all-I-needed check list’ so a little gap in my packing is a very useful place. • • It’s not a race, when you find you are behind your schedule, change your schedule, better to do all that an opportunity has to offer that to leave it in search of another opportunity. Opportunities, like lightening and rainbows are not daily occurrences, so when one comes give it all the appreciation it deserves and recognise it for what it is, because it may be a while before one occurs again. The road is full of tempting diversions and none of them are in the wrong direction.

smokey triumphElectronics are needy things, they have to be charged, protected, answered, programmed and general paid attention to. I try to bear in mind that people travelled long before any of this was available. Look up, look around, take a map; spread on a restaurant table it will attract company and everyone has a suggestion and knows of an ‘idyllic’ place that the guide book doesn’t mention. Looking at a sat-nav or phone will mean the world passes by as you stare at the digital interpretation of where you are. It can isolate as well as liberate, I see it like a comfort blanket, a thumb to suck when I’m feeling down, not a cigarette pack that needs to come out of the pocket every time I stop. Travelling is hard, it’s not the romantic endless road of nonstop excitement and encounters, sometimes it’s just exhausting, another language I don't speak, another menu I can’t read, another noisy hotel I can’t sleep in, another scam set up for me to walk into. Those are the days to have a compassionate Skype call, escape and watch my favourite movie, because this time too will pass.

Having just put down the phone I'm about to suggest you get a second one, a small simple unlocked one that will stay charged for 2 weeks and accept a local sim card. Great for those local calls and no distraction, no roaming charges. That friendly accommodating person you met at the petrol station will be able to call you and you him if you need some emergency translation doing, and the bike shop can call you when they have your parts.

statueI seem to have a mental block when it comes to learning languages, where others learn phrases I struggle and then mispronounce a single word. However the big 5 that are worth making the effort to learn are ‘please, thank you, hello, goodbye and sorry’ that's always going to help the day run smoother.

Who are you doing this trip for? If it’s enviable facebook statuses, likes, shares, and retweets then perhaps you need to reassess your objectives. If it’s to look, see, experience, learn and report back than good for you, inspire, enthuse, inform, encourage. If you’ve done it you know how easy it is, if you haven’t, listen to those who have, not to those who haven’t. Instead of habitually looking at facebook as soon as you have Wi-Fi try putting your location name into Wikipedia and learn a little about where you have stopped.

beachWhen the preparation and research all becomes too daunting, when my travel budget is disappearing on insurance, visas, carnets, ferries, and other essentials before I have even left home. When my expenditure is equivalent to the price of an all inclusive drinks by the pool package deal in the window of my local travel agents; a poster of tranquillity and relaxation that I manically rush past with my mind on to-do lists, exchange rates and impending deadlines. That's when I take a look at the atlas, the mountain roads, the coastal twisties, the empty plains, the exotic cities, it brings back the excitement, the apprehension of the challenges ahead, and ultimately the butterflies in my tummy. Which all reminds me there is nothing I want to do more than travel overland independently on my bike into the vaguely researched, but mainly unexpected where the real adventure begins.

I withhold the right to change these tips as I continue to travel and learn.

exhibition stand